What a great read for anyone familiar with Hawaii, or with surfing culture. This story tells the tale of a boy-turned-man who escapes his adolescent trials through surfing, but is then forced to grow in adulthood when he causes/encounters/endures a tragedy of his own making. He's required to look at his life and take stock. The main character wasn't always sympathetic, but I did find him realistic. Theroux has again infused his writing with an intimate understanding of Hawaii, its people, its history, and also with a very heartfelt and honest take on human nature, the ways people can get stuck, and how they journey through emotional dark places toward personal growth.

 

Publisher description:

Now in his sixties, big-wave surfer Joe Sharkey has passed his prime and is losing his "stoke." The younger surfers around the breaks on the north shore of Oahu still idolize the Shark, but his sponsors are looking elsewhere. One night, while driving home from a bar after one too many, Joe accidentally kills a stranger near Waimea, a tragedy that sends his life out of control. As the repercussions of the accident spiral ever wider, Joe's devoted girlfriend, Olive, throws herself into uncovering the dead man's identity and helping Joe find vitality and refuge in the waves again.